My Cart


Gentleman's guide: The double breasted waistcoat

Gentleman's guide: The double breasted waistcoat

The one glimmer of colour amongst a sea of traditional black or grey morning suits (or tails) at an English wedding or racing meeting. The waistcoat, a chance to add some individuality and some personality.

To state the obvious Waistcoats can be single or double breasted, but the double is the undoubtedly more sophisticated and distinguished.

The fabric Linen on the front is popular but practically a bit of a nightmare due to the creasing. For our new collection we have sourced super fine merino wool from Italy. This is equally as lightweight but looks smart and sharp…and comes without the creasing problems. Being wool, it also makes it a brilliant all-year round waistcoat. Colours on the front are almost always muted pastels, we’ve changed it a little this year with some unusual hues including a pale blue grey and an olive green.

The back of all waistcoats should be a thin silk – and this is where the design of the JAYJEE waistcoats really come into their own. We have worked with weavers from Hyderabad in Telangana, the handloom capital of India, to design small rolls of pure silk ikat. This is hard to come by and equally as hard to work with when combining with other fabrics. We are lucky to have a workshop in the UK with expert tailors to carefully cut and stitch it. And because machines can’t be used on it, we know the JAYJEE design is unlikely to be copied and when we say limited edition and unique we are confident about it! The silk ikat is designed with subtle but fun colours and patterns to add that little bit of character and razzmatazz. 

Shape and fit The two sides of the double breasted waistcoat do up with parallel buttons at the front. It should also have two hidden buttons on the inside which are important to make the two sides line up and to give that clean sweeping line over the trousers. We also include a strap at the back that can be tightened to ensure a snug and show slim-fit. Our lapels are a contemporary, straight style to go with the sharp design look.

Top tip Never leave a gap above the trousers and below the waistcoat. A cardinal sin in the eyes of the fashion gods!

We hope that this article has helped and you enjoy checking out the JAYJEE collections. There is a way of being individual and catching the eye even in a morning suit!

Join the JAYJEE family!

Get 10% off on your first order and receive our monthly newsletter